South African Hat Designer Making Waves: ‘Showcasing My Work in London Was the Highlight of My Career

by Thabiso Rakgaka

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Mandisa Cosa-Nkwenkwezi, the self-taught milliner behind Nzwakazi Millinery, has created a name for herself with her uniquely crafted hats, designed to radiate class and glamour. Born in the Eastern Cape, Mandisa’s passion for fashion was influenced by her artistic family background. Her mother was a knitwear designer and poet, while her father was a carpenter and mechanic, and her brothers were visual artists. Mandisa’s own journey into fashion began as a performing artist before transitioning to hat design, drawing inspiration from the elegance of the women she saw at church during her youth.

Her love for fashion, particularly hats, grew out of her experiences attending the Old Apostolic Church in Middledrift, where women were required to dress modestly but stylishly, covering their heads and arms. Mandisa began modifying her mother’s clothes to express her unique style, and later, her grandmother’s gift of two distinctive church hats solidified her desire to design headpieces. These hats, made from materials not available in South Africa at the time, sparked her fascination with millinery, leading her to study the craft both in South Africa and abroad.

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Mandisa’s journey to establish Nzwakazi Millinery was not without setbacks. After initial support from her husband, she sought to enhance her skills by studying footwear design in China, but the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted her plans. Forced to return to the rural areas, Mandisa found new inspiration in her surroundings, including the kraals and barbed-wire fences, which influenced the spiraling designs seen in her hats. She also adapted her business to cater to funerals, where people sought to dress elegantly despite the challenges of the pandemic.

Despite these challenges, Mandisa’s business flourished. She focuses on creating classic, timeless pieces that transcend fleeting trends. Her hats, often crafted with luxurious materials and signature beadwork, are designed for longevity and sustainability. Mandisa aims to create pieces that can be passed down through generations, reflecting her commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

After gaining international recognition through London Hat Week and being featured in UK-based magazines, Mandisa’s work has finally been acknowledged in her home country. She recently showcased her designs at London Accessory Week and is now collaborating with Tshedza Pictures to create accessories for the South African TV drama The Republic. Looking ahead, Mandisa hopes to continue mentoring aspiring rural designers and expanding her brand’s influence in South Africa and beyond.

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